During the summer of 2015, I, along with my close friend Will, canoed the entire 2,352 miles which make up the Mississippi River. This trip took place for several reasons- Will, being a native of Sweden, wanted to see the greater culture of the United States, specifically the south. I had just graduated and was a bit worn from being in front of a computer and having technology be a extreme constant in my life. Most importantly, we wanted to raise money for two organizations we worked with in Michigan who work with terminally ill children.
The idea for this adventure grew and evolved over the past year and on June 12th, 2015, this grand expedition started--- we put a 17 foot canoe I refurbished into the headwaters of the Mississippi in Northern Minnesota and departed for the 'come what may'. We dealt with weeks of debilitating storms and long periods of vicious heat waves. We also met great generosity and support along the river. Life on the river, we learned, is an entirely different thing. This 65 day adventure was one of the most incredible, demanding and fantastically inspiring things I have ever done.
This collection is intended to show the people and places of the Mississippi River, as were our encounters. A casually long photo essay for a casually long river.
I made this photograph during the first hours of our journey.
Lake Bemidji provided a serene, colorful sunset for our paddling. The next day, however, the lake would show another, feistier side.
While every day on the river would provide different experiences, the end of the day rituals were always casually ceremonious. This glorious craft has spent many a night in some interesting, sometimes unbelievable, locations. On the banks of a river, however, are where it truly belongs.
Bemidji, Minnesota- Home to a beautiful lake portion of the Mississippi as well as some very large, very old statues of Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox. Approximately 30 minutes before this photo was made it was a hilariously stormy day. Classic Mississippi River.
At times we would just simply sit and be. While we did have an agenda to canoe the entire river, we would never get so caught up in our adventure to where wouldn't stop and enjoy where we were.
Level-headed, wicked smart, funny as hell and loves a good glass of whiskey. I am absolutely convinced Will was the best traveling companion for this adventure. Plus, his being a native of Sweden only lent a certain air of suave mystery to our trip.
We completed the upper headwaters section of the Mississippi in two weeks. We enjoyed some time off the water to enjoy the fine city of Minneapolis, MN.
We completed the upper headwaters section of the Mississippi in two weeks. We enjoyed some time off the water to enjoy the fine city of Minneapolis, MN.
Onward, fair steed, to glory!
The lock & dam systems were a topic of curiosity for us. Two fellas in a canoe was always something of wonder for the people running the locks. We would take around 10 minutes to lock down (re:descend) and a typical barge (and accompanying tows) would take anywhere from 2 to 3 hours.
A stop in Stockholm, Wisconsin would provide us with one of the most excellent pieces of pie we have ever had. Will (hilariously) attempted to pay with a Krona (Swedish currency).
Lake Pepin- another lake along the Mississippi River. I was continually drawn to the patterns the repetition of the waves would have upon the shoreline.
Lake Pepin was one of the longest lake sections of the river. A longer paddle for us seeing as we had to combat it just a couple days before the 4th of July, so powerboat traffic was extremely heavy and treacherous.
This was our kitchen for a large majority of the trip. We would also have campfires as much as possible. Both in part to attempt some form of smokey barrier from the hellish amounts of bugs and also because we were two 20-somethings and simply wanted to have a fire.
This type of door became a routine sight for us along the section of the river which was heavy with lock and dams. These doors had a crispy, 'fresh off the assembly line' look about them.
A large section of barges winched and chained together.
When a larger section of barges was being transported, it would be separated into sections and then pushed and winched through the locks. This is why (to our acute frustration) they always take some a lofty amount of time. They push through sections of three and then tie them up on a long containment wall outside the lock until every barge was pushed through. The last to go through is the towboat which pushes them upstream.
Areas before and after lock and dams, and at other various parts of the river, were covered with sections of broken up rocks and gravel called rip-rap. We would come to know rip-rap quite well and spend much time precariously balancing upon its loose, unstable existence.
Our majestic vessel waiting patiently for a giant brute of a barge to make its staggered, cumbersome exit from a lock system.
People unfamiliar with maritime travel along the Mississippi would always ask us how we handled the system of lock and dams. A sort of confused/surprise would always descend upon them when we would simply say how we would lock (descend) down like every other boat.
Stopping for a spell in Hannibal, Missouri, the hometown of Mark Twain, was one of the most memorable times of our trip. A chance to stretch ones legs in a river town rich in history was something Will and I both lept at.
Meeting one of the owners of the Mark Twain Brewing company, Bill, in Hannibal, Missouri was an amazing time. When he found out we were canoeing the Mississippi, he opened up early for us. We were privileged with a private tour of their facilities, as well as to have beers with the owners and staff.
Will had a sincere interest in exploring the cultures of the south, namely the culinary side. What is a prominent pillar in the world of southern food? Barbecue. What is one of my absolute favorite types of food? Barbecue. Things worked out very well.
A long weekend spent in the area of St.Louis, Missouri not only allowed us to rest, but also see some great sights. And eat more barbecue. We had a notion of taking the elevator to the top of the St.Louis arch, but that was quickly put to rest when I discovered the tiny size of said elevator.
A view of the Mississippi from atop a bluff where we were staying in Alton, Illinois. A town we had no idea we would be staying in. Turned out to be one of the most interesting, welcoming places during our entire trip.
I have a huge interest in maps of all kinds, especially maps which are older and have a interesting history behind them.
This was the first available dry ground we found in over eight hours of paddling. This was a observation deck located approximately 50 feet from the mile marker which designates the Ohio and Mississippi river confluence. The massively flooded area allowed the barge traffic to take quite a few shortcuts, which meant they were coming quite close to us. Their tumultuous wakes were tossing and crashing into our tied up canoe so much we decided to haul it up the stairs and completely remove any possibility of something happening to our fine vessel. Always, always tie up your boat.
The reverse view of the observation deck at the Mississippi/ Ohio confluence. This was one of the most interesting, and elevated, "campsites" we had the fortune of discovering. Being able to stretch out, set up our hammocks and dry out our gear was quite enjoyable.
During our stop in Memphis, TN, we went to Mud Island. This is an island just a stones throw from the main streets of Memphis. On said island is a scale model of the lower Mississippi River. We toured the Mississippi River museum and were given an absolutely fantastic tour which relayed more information then I had ever hoped to glean about the pervasiveness that is the Mississippi river.
A retired paddle-wheel sits in the Mississippi River Museum located on Mud Island, outside of Memphis, TN.
From atop the uppermost viewing platform on Mud Island, we were able to see our very near future that was the river. And, to be honest, the frighteningly quick current of the river.
The only time the Mississippi River wasn't an imposing, commanding force was when it was a few feet wide and we could stand on both the East and West banks at the same time. Another frame of the Mud Island Mississippi River model outside of Memphis, TN.
With all of the flooding which graced the Mississippi this summer, finding a sandbar such as this was a rare thing. Usually they are frequent along the lower Mississippi, but not during our time on the water. Will and I both greatly enjoyed the process of making a fire and cooking dinner. It was a ritual we grew very fond of. It was simple and it honest.
When they recede, the floodwaters of the Mississippi leave quite an interesting pattern in the mud banks along the shore.
My shelter for an evening. Even the nylon fabric of an old hammock was enough to give me a sense of security and home.
Old Army Corp. of Engineers river navigation map (from the 1800's) and an accompanying brass compass are displayed at the Lower Mississippi River Museum. An excellent stop to make along the river in the remarkable, historical town of Vicksburg, Mississippi.
When in Vicksburg, MS, Will and I were offered a private tour of the reitred Army Corp. of Engineers, 'M/V Mississippi IV' tow boat. One of the largest boats to ever cruise the wild waters of the Mississippi River. A longtime goal of both Will and myself was to finally view a captains pilothouse on a towboat. It was just as interesting and curious as I thought.
Stayed for two days in Natchez, MS with an delightful, friendly local. After we were wearied from touring the extensive selection of Antebellum homes and historical museums, we thought it a wise decision to sit on a dock, drink beer and fish.
Neither Will, nor myself, have ever seen something so large move with such remarkable speed. International ships are, by law, captained by a U.S. licensed captain as soon as they enter U.S. waterways. These captains seemingly know the bends and stretches of the Mississippi well, often taking the bends in the river at speeds casually comparable to a fighter jet screaming down a runway.
Venice, Louisiana, was the southernmost town along the Mississippi river, and our final river town of the journey. This relaxed fishing town played every bit the part of the southern 'not hurrying for anyone' attitude we had expected.
The headwaters of the Mississippi were many things- winding, pervasive, shallow, clear and scenic. This frame was made during our first two days on the river.
At its end, the Mississippi was massively wide, hilariously murky, deceptively deep and just as rewarding as we thought it would be all those many, long miles ago. A life changing experience if there ever was.